1988. Melo (Uruguay), a small city on the border with Brazil, is getting ready for the visit of Pope John Paul II. Certain well-informed sources talk of 50,000 visitors. The locals, mostly poor, know what that means: 50,000 pilgrims will want to eat, drink and purchase souvenirs... Driven by enthusiasm rather than divine blessing, they hope to achieve at least a little material happiness. Beto, a small-time smuggler, reckons he?s found the best idea of all: ?The Pope?s Toilet?, where thousands of pilgrims can spend a penny. This involves taking more of a risk and making more trips over the border. He puts his big dream of buying a motorcycle on hold. He even loses his most cherished possession, his bicycle, to achieve the key element of his temple of waste and wealth: the toilet bowl. But he?s determined to make it in time for the divine event.